🔥+ underhillpaytool 30 Apr 2021 Herringbone-patterned bamboo paneling and openings that house plants. “Given the limited time granted for design and construction, a. May 25, 2019 Making a Tool Tote. This is a digital woodworking project that requires a CNC or someone to machine it for you. To make one, you’ll need about a 2’ x 4’ piece of 9mm Baltic Birch Plywood, a.250” spiral router bit (compression preferred) a small or large CNC, the project CAD files and the ability to program simple CNC routines with CAM software. May 16, 2017 - I've been watching the Woodwrights shop as long as I can remember and have always been a fan. I thought it would be fun to try and make the tool tote Roy carries with him during the start of the show. Mar 22, 2020 Whether you’re using it for woodworking tools or garden tools, a tote is a simple and quick project. It’s so simple, in fact, that I decided to add a wee degree of difficulty with a curved handle secured in place by wedged through-tenons. May 16, 2017 - I've been watching the Woodwrights shop as long as I can remember and have always been a fan. I thought it would be fun to try and make the tool tote.

Now that I have a shop again, it's time to get back to woodworking. I feel like an athlete who didn't do anything in the off-season and needs to get back in shape, so I wanted to start with an easier project. The perfect one came along in a video by Shannon Rogers of 'The Renaissance Woodworker.' It is a copy of the tool tote that Roy Underhill carries in the introduction to his show (I read elsewhere that there are plans for building it in his book Woodwright's Apprentice.). I can recall seeing my grandfather carry a similar tote when I was a child.
The design of this tote is a classic, outstanding in form and function. It's strength is in the center 'I' composed of the ends and the handle/divider, allowing the long sides to be thin and light. The angled sides make it easy and convenient to access tools. I think that, in different sizes, it is ideal for lots of things other than woodworking tools, from gardening tools to knitting.
I decided to make a prototype from some alder I have. It is too short to fit full size handsaws, which I see as a requirement for a tool tote, but it will be useful for other purposes. I also decided to angle both sides because I don't like the look of the straight side and don't see how it would make the tote that much easier to carry.
I am embarrassed to admit it, but I could not understand Shannon's explanation of the need for compound angles, a lack of visual/spatial intelligence on my part I am afraid. I decided to go ahead and just make simple angles, see what was wrong when I put it together and hope I'd be able to saw or plane compound angles if necessary. As it turned out, I never did discover a need for them and am puzzled. Shannon's design obviously differs from mine in some way.
Shannon joined the center divider/handle to the end pieces with an angled through mortise, which I am sure is traditional but seems to create a weak point. I decided to use an alternative that has worked well for me in the past. I created a dado for the handle/divider to sit in and fastened it to the ends with dowels. Quick, easy, and strong, this distributes the force generated by carrying the tote among the dowels. The sides sit in rabbets and are also fastened with dowels (I would like to have tried cut nails like Shannon used, but I don't have any). I made the dadoes with a saw, chisel and router plane. I made the rabbets with a saw, chisel, and plow plane. So this is what my end pieces look like:
My center divider is made just like Shannon's, except for the tenon. I drilled out most of the waste for the handle and then used rasps and files to finish it:

Notice the blotching. I went to a lot of effort to cut this tree, have it sawed up and then air dry it, only to discover that most of it is like this, apparently from minerals in the soil, so it gets used for a lot of shop projects. I used a scrap piece of baltic birch plywood for the bottom, so expansion isn't an issue. Add the sides and it's done:

I'm pretty happy with how this came out and it was definitely a good project to begin to get in shape with. It's easy to see why woodworkers went to the trouble of creating the angled sides as it makes seeing and accessing tools very convenient. The 'I' is a full 1' thick and the sides are 1/2' thick on this prototype, making for a stout but heavy tote, overkill I think. Shannon's was 3/4' and 3/8' and I think that is better.
I am thinking about buying some dye to see if I could mute this blotching. I tried stain in the past and it didn't work. Milk paint might look good. Ideas welcome.

The next project that caught me was a tool tote like the one Roy Underhill sports at the beginning of his show. Beyond that novelty, it interested me because of its hopper construction and the compound angles that were fundamental to it. I though this would help build my comfort beyond pieces joined at right angles that have defined most of my work to date. I was also driven by practical purpose as I am always carrying tools between the house and my shed workshop. To help learn about the construction method, I followed the details included in the “Tool Tote” chapter in Roy’s book, “The Woodwright’s Apprentice”.

Starting with five boards cut to rough dimension from straight grain pine, 3/4” stock. I sawed the angles for the ends and sides. As the chapter indicates, I used a bevel setting resulting from the 1 1/2 and 5 1/2 marks on my framing square. South african driver license codes.

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The one side board was resawed in half so the totes sides would be approximately 3/8” thick. I resawed the board while it angled away from me in the vise flipping it periodically to saw from opposing sides. This helps one keep their saw on a better track along the length of the cut. A few licks with the plane followed to minimize the saw marks.

A beverage to help power your work is required for resawing

Roy Underhill Tool Tote Plans Download

Next I sawed the shoulders of the rabbets on the end boards. Shoulders were sawn parallel to the angled ends of these boards. Rabbits were finished by splitting off the waste, paring across the joint with a chisel, and some ‘tune-up’ with my router plane.

Roy Underhill Tool Tote Plans Printable

To find the required angle for the bevel along the upper and lower edges and bottom, the sides and ends were temporary nailed together and the bevel was set with blade across the width of the tote and the handle resting tight to the side (Roy’s book provide a good description and some photos of this). I then planed the upper and lower edges to match this bevel setting.

The bottom was also fit while the pieces were temporary assembled. The bottom drops into the opening of the tote and it’s edge is beveled on all sides to match the splay angle of the sides and ends. I had to keep in mind during this step that the face of the board with the narrower width resulting from this bevel goes on the underside of the piece. As Roy suggests in the book, I planed one edge and side to the bevel setting. Then placing the nailed together carcass on the bottom piece while it was upside down (i.e., narrower width up) and these two bevel edges aligned to the inside of the carcass, I traced around the inside to transfer the dimensions of the other edge and side to the bottom face. I used my jack plane to then finish the bottom by planing to these lines.

I next prepared the piece for the handle laying out and sawing the taper on each end of the piece. The end of the handle forms a tenon that fits into a mortise in the tote’s ends. When laying out the slope of the taper, I had to be sure it was not too steep as that would result in tenon too weak (narrow) once the tot